"Miyajima at high tide, just after sunset, when the torii glows against the dark water and most day visitors have already left — that's one of the most beautiful things I've seen in Japan. Stay overnight if you possibly can."
Why Miyajima Is Worth the Trip
Miyajima — officially Itsukushima Island — is one of Japan's Three Views (Nihon Sankei), a title bestowed on landscapes considered the most beautiful in the country. The floating torii gate of Itsukushima Shrine, rising from the sea at high tide, is one of the most photographed images in all of Japan.
The island is a 10-minute ferry ride from Miyajimaguchi, itself a 30-minute tram ride from central Hiroshima. Most visitors combine Miyajima with the Peace Memorial as a full-day Hiroshima itinerary — and it works perfectly.
Beyond the torii, Miyajima has a mountain with a ropeway, excellent street food, free-roaming deer and a surprisingly good hiking trail. It rewards those who stay longer than the average two-hour visit.
The Floating Torii Gate
The great torii of Itsukushima Shrine was first built in 593 AD. The current gate dates from 1875 and stands 16 metres tall — one of the largest wooden torii in Japan.
Whether the gate appears to "float" depends on the tide. At high tide, the water surrounds the base completely and the effect is magical. At low tide, you can walk out to the gate across the exposed seabed.
Check the tide times before you visit — the Miyajima Tourist Association website lists daily high and low tides. High tide at golden hour is the ideal combination, but any high tide gives you the classic image.
Itsukushima Shrine
Built over the water on wooden stilts, Itsukushima Shrine is one of Japan's most extraordinary pieces of architecture. The shrine complex — a UNESCO World Heritage Site — dates back to the 6th century, though the current structures are mostly from the 16th century.
Entry costs ¥300 and allows you to walk through the covered corridors that extend over the sea. At high tide, the reflection of the orange pillars in the water is extraordinary.
The Deer of Miyajima
Miyajima has several hundred free-roaming Sika deer, considered sacred messengers of the gods in Shinto tradition. They wander the streets, the shrine precincts and the ferry terminal with complete indifference to tourists.
They are wild animals — charming but occasionally opportunistic. Keep food in sealed bags and don't try to hand-feed them. They have been known to eat maps, shopping bags and tourist brochures with considerable enthusiasm.
Mount Misen and the Ropeway
Mount Misen (535m) is Miyajima's sacred peak, accessible by ropeway from Momijidani Station or on foot via hiking trails. The summit offers panoramic views of the Seto Inland Sea and, on clear days, Hiroshima city.
The ropeway runs in two stages and costs ¥1,000 return. From the upper station, it's a further 30-minute walk to the summit. The hiking trail through the primeval forest takes about 90 minutes from the base.
What to Eat on Miyajima
Miyajima's signature street food is momiji manju — small maple-leaf-shaped cakes filled with red bean paste, custard or chocolate. Every shop on the main street sells them and they're genuinely delicious.
Oysters are the other Miyajima specialty — the island is famous for its oyster farming. Grilled oysters at the stalls near the ferry terminal are excellent and inexpensive.
Anago (saltwater eel) is the third local specialty — served as anago-meshi (eel over rice) at the sit-down restaurants on the main shopping street.
How to Get There
From Hiroshima: take the tram (lines 2 or 6) from central Hiroshima to Hiroshima-ko, then the JR ferry to Miyajima. Total journey: about 30-35 minutes.
Alternatively, take the JR San'yo Line from Hiroshima Station to Miyajimaguchi (27 minutes), then the JR ferry (10 minutes). JR Pass holders can use both the train and the JR ferry for free.
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