"Higashi Chaya is what Gion in Kyoto must have felt like 30 years ago — before the crowds. The streets are just as beautiful, the buildings just as old, and you can walk them without being jostled. Kanazawa keeps this secret well."
What Is Higashi Chaya?
Higashi Chaya (East Teahouse District) is one of the three chaya districts of Kanazawa, established by the Kaga Domain in 1820 as regulated entertainment quarters where geisha performed. It is the largest of the three and the best preserved geisha district in Japan outside of Kyoto.
The district consists of a few short streets lined with two-storey wooden ochaya (teahouses), their latticed facades unchanged since the Edo period. Unlike Gion in Kyoto, Higashi Chaya remains relatively uncrowded — a remarkable experience given the quality of the architecture.
Today, a handful of active teahouses still operate by introduction only. Many have converted to cafes, craft shops and gold leaf experiences that welcome visitors.
Shima Ochaya — Inside an Edo Teahouse
Shima Ochaya is one of the original 1820 teahouses, now open to the public as a museum. The interior reveals how these spaces functioned — the formal entrance, the performance rooms with their red-lacquered railings, the garden and the upstairs rooms where guests would watch geisha perform.
Entry is ¥750 and includes an explanatory pamphlet. The teahouse is small but beautifully preserved — the lacquered interiors, the garden view and the quiet make it worth the entry fee.
Gold Leaf Experiences
Kanazawa produces over 99% of Japan's gold leaf, and Higashi Chaya is full of gold leaf experiences — from applying gold to lacquerware or chopsticks (from ¥1,500) to tasting gold leaf ice cream and coffee.
The gold leaf ice cream — a soft serve cone covered in a sheet of edible gold — is the district's most photographed food item. It tastes like soft serve and looks extraordinary. Worth it for the experience.
Hakuichi and Sakuda Gold & Silver Leaf are the most established gold leaf shops, both on the main Higashi Chaya street.
Eating and Shopping
The main Higashi Chaya street has several excellent cafes converted from old teahouse buildings — dark wood interiors, handmade ceramics and high-quality matcha. Kaikaro is one of the finest teahouses now open for tea (reservation recommended).
For souvenirs, the district specialises in gold leaf products, lacquerware and Kutani pottery — the regional ceramic style known for its bold, colourful patterns. These make genuinely good gifts and are available at every price point.
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